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Planning Your Time on Puerto Rico’s North Coast

The north coast of Puerto Rico is a wild expanse of rocky coastline, gorgeous ocean views, green farmlands, and hilly karst country. The unusual topography alone is worth the drive. A subterranean river and an intricate system of underground limestone caves have created enormous sinkholes and haystack hills—called mogotes—all along the coastline and farther inland. The best place to see them is at Cavernas del Río Camuy. It’s a stunning sight unlike anywhere else on the island.

Playa Sardinera in Hatillo. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.
Playa Sardinera in Hatillo. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.

Picturesque rocky shores and rough waters with strong currents make finding the ideal swimming spot a challenge on the north coast. Many beaches are better for looking at, walking along, or surfing at than for going swimming. But there are a few spectacular oceanside jewels worth seeking out—at the resorts in Dorado, at Punta Cerro Gordo in Vega Alta, and at Playa Mar Chiquita in Manatí. Meanwhile, the powerful waves along the north coast make for excellent surfing, especially around Manatí and Arecibo. The major sport in the area, though, is golf. Dorado is home to two world-class golf courses, just 30 minutes from San Juan.

It’s worth noting that the north coast is also thick with industrial and commercial development, fast-food restaurants, road construction, and traffic. Despite the urban sprawl, though, the region has a lot going for it.

Planning Your Time

Puerto Rico’s north coast is a great place for a day trip, an overnight stay, or a long weekend. Thanks to two major roadways, it’s easily accessible whether you’re approaching it from San Juan or from the west coast.

Despite what you might think, PR 22, a multilane divided toll road with six tollbooths between San Juan and Arecibo, is the best route along the north coast. Although construction projects and commuter rush hours can slow your progress, it is the most expeditious route. The alternative is PR 2, a congested multilane commercial route that traverses the length of the island along the most unsightly stretch of urban sprawl. It should be avoided if possible.

Aerial view of town along a beach with turquoise water.
An aerial view of Dorado. Photo © Javier Cruz Acosta/Dreamstime.

Dorado is the easternmost municipality, about 27 kilometers (17 mi) and 30 minutes from San Juan. A popular vacation spot, it has lovely beaches, luxurious resorts, and world-class golf courses. Farther west are the municipalities of Vega Alta and Manatí, which have some spectacular beaches—Balneario Cerro Gordo and Playa Mar Chiquita, respectively—that are ideal for swimming.

One of the most popular attractions along the north coast is the Cavernas del Río Camuy, a park that’s just under 1.5 hours from San Juan. In Arecibo, check out Cueva del Indio, an amazing geological and archaeological wonder featuring petrified sand dunes and Taíno petroglyphs.

The best selection of restaurants can be found at either end of the north coast, in Dorado and Arecibo. The best selection of accommodations is in Dorado.


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Suzanne Van Atten

About the Author

Suzanne Van Atten has written about destinations throughout the United States, Mexico, South America, the Caribbean, and Europe. She has barhopped in Barcelona, slept in a Jesuit monastery on the Amalfi coast, crewed a hot air balloon in New Mexico, gone white-water rafting in Tennessee, and gotten lost too many times to count.

Amidst all these travels, she always returns to Puerto Rico, a place she fell in love with when she lived there as a teenager. The country’s rich culture, postcard-perfect beaches, lush tropical jungle, cobblestone streets, pastel colors, lively music, and the joie de vivre of its people colluded to seduce her. No matter how many times she returns, she always discovers something new and delightful.

Suzanne is a creative writing instructor, an editor for the Atlanta Journal-Constitution, and a Pushcart Prize-nominated essayist who’s been published in the Gettysburg Review, The Chattahoochee Review, and Full Grown People.

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